A “Ziggurat” for Flexible-Shaft Accessories
BY SARA M. SANFORD
Project for beginners.
Editor's note: An organized set of flexible-shaft tools is particularly useful when adding texture to metal; see “Scratching the Surface: Texturing Metal,” page 40 in the September 2000 Lapidary Journal.
Ziggurat: A stepped pyramid, used as temples by ancient Assyrians and Babylonians, and by early Egyptians as tombs.
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- 20' of 1 x 2 wood (actually 3/4" by 1 5/8"), or 2 10' lengths
- Miter box
- Small hand saw (or adjustable table saw or radial arm saw)
- Flexible-shaft machine with Jacob's chuck
- Center punch, preferably automatic
- Wood glue
- Aluminum foil
- Small right angle
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- 6" lazy Susan swivel base and 4 wood screws to attach it
- 1/8" twist drill bit for 3/32" shanks
- Drill press stand for flexible-shaft machine if available (or large drill press)
- 5/32" twist drill bit for 1/8" shanks
- Jig to drill angled holes
- Hand sanding block
- Fine sand paper for wood
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For information on supplies, please see the Annual Buyers' Directory.
Always ask for the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) for any materials you buy, which will give you reactivity, health hazard, and safe handling data.
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One of the best ways to avoid frustration when working in the studio is to keep your tools and supplies well organized. This is a fun, easy project to help you organize your flexible-shaft accessories. This ziggurat is expandable - just add another layer if you run out of room. I have already added two levels to my original eight. Ten layers will give you spaces for nearly 500 accessories, although you will not be able to use all the spaces, since some wheels will take up more space than the small burs do. Woodworking power tools will make the task easier, but are not necessary to complete this project.
Almost any grade of wood will work for this project, but I do recommend clear vertical grain fir, since it will have few imperfections to interfere with the cutting or drilling processes.
Note: Even if you have access to woodworking tools, do not attempt to use them unless you have a good amount of experience!
STEP 1.
Cut the 1 x 2 wood into appropriate lengths. You will need four of the same length for each level (except for the top one). Each level is 1" longer than the level above it. For a 10-level ziggurat, you will need to cut 10", 9", 8", 7", 6", 5" 4", 3" and 2" outer edge lengths, plus a single 1" square for the top. If you are using a power saw or a miter box, it is easy to make a single 45° cut, and then simply turn the 1 x 2 over so that the wood is already properly angled for the next piece.
 STEP 2.
Mark each length to position the holes, and center punch the wood. Draw a pencil line 3/8" from the outer (wider) edge, and then mark off each 3/8" along this line. For the top piece, mark one hole in the center, and one at each corner.
STEP 3.
Make the jig for drilling the angled holes. (If you are fortunate enough to have access to a large drill press with an adjustable table, you may simply set it to drill at the proper angle.) Although you can drill the holes straight up at 90°, I have found that a 60° angle will make it easier to reach and replace the accessories. Cut about a 3" length out of scrap 1 x 2, and using a protractor or 30° angle template, mark a 30° angle on both ends. This will be the trickiest part if you are only using hand tools. You will need to cut this angle along the whole length of the 1 x 2, but it need not be absolutely perfect. You can sand it after it is cut to make it smooth and level. In any case, it really doesn't matter if the angle is 27° or 32°, just as long as it is consistent.
Glue a piece of lathe or plywood, about 1/4" thick x 1" wide x 3" long to the outer bottom edge. This makes a flange to C-clamp to the drill press table, so you can hold the wood being drilled steady.
STEP 4.
Once the jig is ready, drill the holes along each length of 1 x 2 as marked. First, however, set the drill's depth stop, so that you don't drill all the way through the wood (1/2" is satisfactory). If you use mostly accessories with a 3/32" mandrel, use a 1/8" twist drill bit; if most of your mandrels are 1/8", then use a 5/32" drill bit. (You will drill the center hole in the top layer at 90°.)
STEP 5.
After you've drilled all the holes, sand the drilled surfaces to get rid of any shavings, then use wood glue to glue each level together at the corners. Use a right angle to get the corners square. If you are working on a wooden surface, place a small piece of aluminum foil under each corner to keep the glue from sticking to the table.
STEP 6.
Once the glue has set (at least overnight), lightly sand the top, sides, and bottoms of the squares, then round off the corners. This is easily accomplished with a hand-sanding block.
STEP 7.
Glue the levels together. Be careful not to get glue in any of the holes, and keep the layers evenly placed. If you want to seal, stain, or paint your ziggurat, now is the time to do it, once the glue has thoroughly dried. Again, make sure the holes are not filled or obscured.
 STEP 8.
Once the glue has set, screw the lazy Susan swivel base onto the bottom of the lowest level. If you have a 10-level ziggurat, with a 10" base, the diagonal will measure 141/4", and you will have to position the corners of the swivel base in the middle of each bottom length, since it will not reach the corners.
STEP 9.
Now comes the fun of organizing! You might want to label each section, but be sure to use removable labels, since you may need to rearrange things in the future as you add products to your ziggurat.
Sara M. Sanford is a professional jeweler who has been researching and experimenting with metalworking techniques for 28 years. She is a founding member and past president of the Portland, OR-based Creative Metal Arts Guild.
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