Bezel Setting Opals
by Wendy Newman
Intermediate project.

They're soft, brittle, don't like the steamer or ultrasonic, and are probably the most beautiful stones on earth. With the high risk factor involved, it's a wonder anyone in their right mind would want to bezel set an opal - but the truth is that if you understand the material and handle it accordingly, it can be worn and set just fine. I bezel set most of the stones in my designs because I like the continuity of the line around the stone, and opals have presented a little more of a challenge to me. I'm going to outline a few ways you can minimize your risk of chipping or cracking your stone.

I'm an admitted opalholic. I cut and buy all types of opals, as long as they are beautiful, even some poorly cut doublets. The first thing I do after I get a stone is design a piece of jewelry that will really show it off. Many opals have better flash from one direction, and I take that into consideration. I use different techniques for bezel setting opals, depending on the cut of the stone. (If the piece is going to be a ring, consider size before you set the opal, as opals need to be removed from bezel settings prior to sizing or any hot work.)

Shown above are a pendant and pin that feature bezel-set opal. This workshop will focus exclusively on this technique; for more about this author's designs, see “Wearable Kinetics,” page 40 in the August 1998 Lapidary Journal.

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Price: $4.00

Opal(s) or other cabochons to practice 22K 30-gauge bezel wire or fine silver bezel wire to practice 24-gauge gold or sterling silver backing sheet Hard and soft gold and/or silver solder Half-round pliers (optional) Mandrel Snap-on sanding disks Thick vellum tracing paper Jeweler's saw	Third hand Torch Brown and blue flat-edged silicon polishing wheels 220-grit sanding stick and wet/dry sandpaper Scribe Bezel roller Small burnisher Metal bench block Black epoxy resin Hammer handpiece (optional) Optivisor
For information on supplies, please see the Annual Buyers' Directory.

Wendy Newman of Gold Graphix is a designer-goldsmith from Newport News, Virginia, who specializes in setting rare and unusual gemstones in one-of-a kind pendants, earrings, and pins. She does retail fine art and craft shows on the east coast. She can be reached via e-mail at ggraphix@msn.com.