Bangle Bracelet
Wire wrapped links create a flexible bangle bracelet.
by Connie Fox

What do tangelos, werewolves, and brangles have in common? All three are combinations of 2 elements: tangerine-grapefruit, man-wolf, and bangle-bracelet. The concept of a brangle was introduced to me by a customer several years ago. While playing with the jewelry, she commented “I love the look of a bangle and the feel of a bracelet.” Say no more, the brangle was born.

The brangle presented in this article is a good project for beginning wire workers. The main challenge you will encounter is getting the brangle to fit your wrist. Before you begin, let me offer you some advice that will save both time and money. Make your brangle in copper wire first. You will then feel free to snip, add, and play without the concern of wasting sterling silver.
Your copper practice piece will provide you with a template for reproducing the brangle in silver.

I hope you enjoy the project!

Photo of finished piece by Frank DeSantis; all other photos courtesy of the author.

Connie Fox will be sharing her skills in wirework at Bead Fest!

Design.
Choose the beads you’d like to incorporate into your finished piece. I have
chosen lampwork beads made by Donna Struthers that are earthy and tribal. African bronze and Karen Hilltribe beads complement the lampwork beads. Notice how I use the design principle of repetition in this brangle. The following elements are repeated throughout the entire piece: “eye” beads, the colors black and terracotta, bronze beads, and silver spacers. Using repetition allows the eye to travel around the brangle and gives continuity to your work.

For other design options: Use a color wheel to achieve complementary, analogous, or split complementary color combinations. Combine mixed metals, such as silver, brass/bronze, and copper. Use high polished beads with clean lines to create a contemporary design. Use beads from one area of the world to develop a theme.

Measurements.
My favorite brangle design is made up of a central section and two arms. One of the arms includes the clasp. The mandrel measurements of these three pieces depends on the size of your wrist, the diameter of the jaws of your round nose pliers, and the size of the beads you use. You will need to experiment with your copper wire to arrive at your ideal mandrel measurement.

The brangle in this article fits a 6" wrist and was made with beads that range from 10-12mm in diameter. The mandrel lengths for the three pieces are: central section — 4-3/4", left arm — 4", and right arm — 3-3/4". It isn’t necessary for the arms to be the same length, in fact, I prefer an asymmetrical design.

Central section.
Cut 2' of 18-gauge sterling silver wire to use for coiling. Place the 18-gauge wire on top of a piece of 14-gauge wire (copper or silver) to form a cross.

Rotate the upper wire away from your body. Continue rotating the 18-gauge wire onto the 14-gauge to form a coil. When the upper, 18-gauge wire is completely coiled around the 14-gauge mandrel, reverse the piece of 14-gauge wire and coil the remaining 18-gauge wire.

Determine how long you want the central section to be. Mine is 2-1/2" long, not including the eyes. String beads, spacers, and coiling on to a long piece of 14-gauge wire.

With an indelible pen, mark the bottom of your round nose pliers. Grasp one end of the 14-gauge wire at the mark on the bottom of your long round nose pliers.

Rotate your hand away from your body to form a loop.

Introduce the tips of your chain nose pliers into the joint and rotate towards your body.

Place your round nose pliers in the loop and close the gap.

Now you must determine where to cut the other end of the mandrel wire in order to get an eye of the same size.

Using the same long nose pliers, grasp the end of a 4-5" piece of 14-gauge copper wire, at the mark and with no wire peeking through the jaws of the pliers. Rotate your hand away from your body to form a loop.

Mark the joint with an indelible pen. Unravel the wire and measure from the ink mark to the end of the wire. This is the length of wire it will take to make an identical eye.

Cut the 14-gauge mandrel wire, allowing for the additional wire needed to make the second eye — the measurement from Step 7. Make the second eye the same way you did the first. When you place the central section on a flat surface, the eyes should be perpendicular to the surface.

Arm One.
Determine how long you want the arm to be. The sample is 1-1/4" long, not including the eyes. Follow the same procedure that you used for the central section. There is one difference — one eye will be parallel to the surface when your brangle is placed on a table, the other eye (the one that will connect to the central section) will be perpendicular to the surface.

Arm Two.
You will need approximately 1-1/2" for the clasp. This measurement will vary depending on the diameter of the jaws of your round nose jaws.

Add to this, the measurement for your beads, spacers, and coiling (mine is 1-3/8"), plus the allowance for your eye. I suggest you work with a little more wire than you think you will need — it’s easy to snip off some, but not easy to add.

Start this piece by making the clasp first. Hammer 1/4" of one end of your 14-gauge wire on a steel bench block (anvil) until it is pretty flat.

With your round nose pliers, make a small loop. I have used small round nose pliers in the image, but, the tips of your long round nose pliers may be used as well.

Place the wire (right next to the small loop) in the bottom of your long round nose pliers.

Using the bottom of your round nose pliers, rotate your hand away from your body and in the opposite direction of the small loop.

Hammer the curve, and extend your hammering 1/4" beyond the small loop. This will act as a stop so that your beads don’t slide onto the clasp.

Use a bead with a fairly small hole at the end so it is less likely to slide.

String your beads, spacers and coiling onto the mandrel wire. Make an eye on the end of the mandrel and be sure it’s perpendicular when you place the arm on a flat surface.

Putting it all together and making adjustments.
When you reach this last step, you will thank your lucky beads you are working in copper wire. Link the sections together using 2 jump rings at each join. My jump rings are 5mm inner diameter, but you can use the size you like.

Place the brangle on your wrist and think “Goldielocks.” Too big? Too small? Or, just right! If the brangle is too large you have a big decision to make — which of those treasured beads are you going to eliminate? Be careful about removing too much coiling since this allows the brangle to curve. If the brangle is too small, decide where you will add length. Work in copper until you get a good fit. Disassemble the brangle, measure your mandrel wires, and reproduce in silver.

Embellishments.
Consider hammering the eyes for a little extra polish, but, make sure you have a good fit before doing this. Dangles made with accent beads on head or eye pins can also be added. And lastly, oxidize your brangle in liver-of-sulfur to achieve depth and contrast in the coiling.

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